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Salvador

 

The Hotel LAGOA e MAR is situated in a tropical garden on the banks of a natural lake and consists of twelve spacious circular bungalows (app. 40 m²). Each bungalow (suite) contains a bedroom with double bed (king size), fan and TV, a living room with two couchbeds, radio and refrigerator, a bathroom with WC and shower and a veranda complete with a hammock and seats, offering enough room for up to three adults.Recover on the mile long sandy beach and relax in the nearly all-year warm sea at „one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil“ (magazine GEO, Spain) in Praia de Jauá with its miles long beaches. www.hotellagoaemar.com.br

Salvador is the capital of the state of Bahia. Nowadays, an important city of 2,211.539 people, Salvador was founded on March 29, 1549, on the shores of the bay of All Saints ("Baia de Todos os Santos") and was Brazil's first capital, a position it kept for 214 year (1549-1763). Its strategic position on the Brazilian coast exposed it to influences from Portugal, Africa and Asia. Due to its historical past, a great part of its colonial architecture is still preserved making the city the largest collection of  Baroque art in South America. Churches, monuments, old houses and squares maintain the traditions of this ancient city. The Pelourinho, (called "Pelô" by the locals), as the old part of the city is called, is an incredibly well-preserved quarter of colonial-style buildings that is currently a bustling area of restaurants, art galleries, craft stores and wondrous churches.

In addition to its colonial past, Salvador is also famous for being an African cultural center in Brazil. For five centuries, blacks and whites have lived together in this city, their cultures melting into one: Bahia's unique culture. That culture can be seen in different aspects: folk dances, craftwork, festivals, religious practices and cuisine.

In terms of beaches, Salvador's coastline covers an area of more than 386 square miles (or 1,000 square km) encompassing 56 islands in the bay. Itapuã and Barra are just a few examples of pleasant beaches within the city limits. Nearby you can find some of the most magnificent beaches of the Brazilian coast. Along the Green Line, the road that connects Salvador to Bahia's northern coast, there are environmentally protected areas and wonderful sandy beaches. It all begins in Praia do Forte and continues north all the way to the town of Jandaíra near the paradise-like village of Mangue Seco at the border with the state of Sergipe. The local tourism authorities recommend Salvador as one of the best places for water sports in the Americas, such as windsurfing. 

Restaurants: Salvador is a cosmopolitan metropolis with plenty of international restaurants. Nevertheless, the most interesting aspect of Bahia's culture lies exactly in its regional food, extremely influenced by 3 different ethnic groups: the Portuguese, the Africans and the Amerindians (the native Brazilians). The Portuguese influenced the sweetness of the desserts, mostly based on sugar, egg yolks and tropical fruits. The Africans brought the dendê palm oil used in many dishes such as vatapá, efó, caruru and in many seafood stews (moquecas)  The influence of the Amerindians can be seen in the use of manioc, specially as flour (farofa). Just as an example of cuisine from Bahia:

Acarajé -Prepared from a batter made from white beans, deep fried in dendê oil. It is served split in the middle and filled with Vatapá, hot chili paste and dried shrimp

Abará - Prepared with similar batter to Acarajé, but it is cooked instead of fried, and served on a banana leaf.

Vatapá - Stew-like dish with dendê oil, bread, ground cashew nuts, and green peppers.

Caruru - Stew with dried shrimp, okra and dendê oil.

Moqueca - Stew with Coconut milk, dendê oil, onions, bell peppers, tomatoes, other vegetables and any particular type of seafood (shrimp, fish, crab, ray, shark).

Mariscada - Stew with a big selection of seafood.Sarapatel - Pork intestines, with lots of spices.

Farofa de Dendê - Manioc flour with dendê oil.

Caldo de Sururu - Soup made with Sururu (clam-like seafood).

Restaurants serving cuisine from Bahia in Salvador:

Yemanjá - Av. Otávio Mangabeira, 4655 (Jardim Armação), phone: 461.9010
Agdá - Rua Orlando Moscoso, 1 (Praia dos Artistas), phone: 461.3375
Dona Chika-ká - Rua José Castro Rabelo, 10 (Pelourinho), phone: 321.1712
Jardim das Delicias - Rua João de Deus, 12 (Pelourinho), phone: 322.7068
Paraiso Tropical - Rua Edgar Loureiro, 98-B (Cabula), phone: 384.7464
Senac - Largo do Pelourinho 13/19 (Pelourinho), phone: 321.5502
De Comer - Rua Boa Vista 49 (Itapoã), phone: 249.9823

International food:

Alfredo di Roma - Av. Oceanica, 1545 (Ondina - at the Caesar Towers Flat), phone: 331.7775
Bernard Prestige - Av. Oceanica, 3001 (Ondina - at the Flat Pier Sul), phone: 203.0328
Salvador Dali - Rua Borges dos Reis, 158/164 (Rio Vermelho), phone: 335.4593

Tourist Offices

Bahiatursa - Bahia Tourist Board (ProBrazil)

International Airport Phone: 204.1244Hours: 8:30am to 10:45pm
Pelourinho
Address: Rua Francisco Muniz Barreto/Laranjeiras, 12 - Pelourinho Phone: 321.2463 Hours: 8am to 10pm
Rodoviária Pituba
Phone: 450.4500 Hours: 8am to 9:30pm
Mercado Modelo
Praça CayruPhone: 241.0242 Hours: 9am to 6pm
Shopping Iguatemi
Av. Tancredo Neves, 198 - Pituba Phone: 350.5050 Hrs: Mon to Fri 9am to 10pm
Shopping da Barra Av. Centenário, 2992 - Chame-Chame Phone: 339.8222 Hours: Mon to Fri 10am to 10pm; Sat 10am to 9pm; Sun 2pm to 8pm
Convention Center (Kiosk)
Jardim Armação, s/n.º - Armação Phone: 370.8494 Hours: Mon to Fri 8am to 6pm

Museums

Solar do Unhão (Museum of Modern Art) (site in Portuguese)
Address: Av. do Contorno, Phone: 329.0660, Hours: 1pm to 9pm; Sat 3pm to 9pm; Sun 2pm to 7pm; closed on Monday
The Museum of Modern Art of Bahia features works by Brazilian painters such as Di Cavalcanti, Portinari and Tarsila do Amaral, in addition to a restaurant and a sculptural park.
Museu de Arte da Bahia (site in portuguese only)
Address: Av. Sete de Setembro, 2340 (Vitória), Phone: 336.9492/9450, Hours: 2pm to 7pm; Sat/Sun 2:30pm to 6:30pm; closed on Monday.The Museum of Art of Bahia holds an extensive gallery of pictures, antique furniture and china and religious art dated from the 18th century.
Museu de Arte Sacra (Museum of Sacred Art)
Address: Rua do Sodré, 276 (Largo Dois de Julho - Centro), Phone: 243. 6511, Hours: 11:30am to 5:30pm, closed on Saturday and Sunday. Located at an old convent house, the Museum of Sacred Art of Bahia has one of the most impressive collections of sacred art of Brazil, focused on the Brazilian baroque period.
Museu Abelardo Rodrigues  (site in Portuguese only)
Address: Rua Gregório de Matos, 45 (Pelourinho), Phone: 320.9383, Hours: 1pm to 7pm; closed on Monday.
This museum holds the largest private collection of religious art of Brazil with more than 800 pieces among images of saints, gold and silver jewelry.
Museu Carlos Costa Pinto (site in Portuguese only)
Address: Av. Sete de Setembro, 32 (Centro), Phone: 321.0686, Hours: 2pm to 7pm; Sat/Sun 2:30pm to 6:30pm; closed on Tuesday and Thursday. The Carlos Costa Pinto private collection contains works of art, jewelry, glass objects, and furniture dated from the 17th through 19th centuries.
Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado (site in Portuguese only)
Address: Largo do Pelourinho, s/n (Pelourinho), Phone: 321.0070, Hours: 9am to 9pm, Tues 9am to 6 pm, closed on Sunday
This organization features photos, objects and the history of each of the novels of Jorge Amado, one of the most famous Brazilian novelists. Born in Bahia, Amado chose the Bahian scenario for all of his novels.

Interesting Places

Pelourinho - One of the most important places of interest in Salvador, the Pelourinho is the old quarter, concentrating historical churches, museums, bars, restaurants, craft stores and art galleries. The area consists of a set of monuments and colonial town houses in bright colors where several art galleries, craftworks stores and typical restaurants are presently located. Besides that, it works as an open air stage for the numerous music and dance groups in Bahia, among which the renowned Olodum. Capoeira (a combination of dance and martial arts developed by slaves) and other music and dance performances happen frequently in the streets of Pelourinho, especially in the evening. Declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO), this recently revitalized quarter has over 800 restored mansions from the 17th and 18th centuries. The name "Pelourinho", in Portuguese, comes from the pillar slaves were tied to in a public square in order to be flogged. The pillar isn't there anymore, but the square remains.

Forts - One of the features of Salvador is the presence of many fortresses along its coastline. Having being the capital of the colony and its economic center for over 200 years, Salvador was easy prey to foreign invaders and pirates. Twice, for instance, was Salvador threatened by invasions from the Dutch. A strong line of defense, which included fortresses and observation points, was consequently built. Some of these buildings were designed under the influence of Italian and French war schools, others reflect the defense needs of the position. Today you can see many of these forts; since 1995, the Brazilian army keeps some of them open to public for visitation. In these places, military personnel have received appropriate training to guide tourists. 

Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra
Address: Farol da Barra, Phone: 264.3296, Hours: 9am to 7pm, closed on Monday
It is located exactly at the mouth of the All Saints Bay. It is considered the first fortification ever built in Brazil. Today it hosts the Museu Náutico (Nautical Museum), with a collection of naval instruments, navigation equipment, and colonial ship models. (1583-1702)

Forte de São Diogo
Address: Porto da Barra, Phone: 264.3195, Hours: 9:30am to 12pm/1:30pm to 5:30pm, closed on Monday
Located at the base of the Morro de Santo Antonio ("Saint Anthony Hill"), this fort had its fire baptism in May 1638, during the Second Dutch invasion. Nowadays more than a historical attraction, it also offers an exclusive view of the All Saints Bay. It is also a leisure spot for Salvador natives. (1638-1696)

Forte de Nossa Senhora de Monte Serrat
Address: Rua Santa Rita Durão (Ponta de Humaitá), Phone: 313.7339, Hours: 9:30am to 12pm/1:30pm to 5:30pm, closed on Monday
It is considered one of the most beautiful forts built in the coast of Brazil, due to its harmonious shape. During the Dutch invasion it was the site where the Dutch Governor, Van Dorth, died in an attack by Brazilian forces. Today it is home to the Museum of Weapons with a collection of antique military weapons. Built on the top of a peninsula overlooking the bay, the fort has extraordinary sights of the city. (1583-1742)

Churches - The legend says that Salvador has 365 churches, one for each day of the year. Close: Salvador has about 300 churches. Many of them were built during the colonial times, when Salvador was still the capital of the colony and all the wealth brought to Portugal had to stop here first. The most extraordinary ones are those featuring baroque religious art. Many of these churches have a small museum with religious art. Be aware that in some churches you need to dress properly in order to enter; avoid using small shorts, t-shirts, or small skirts for women. 

Salvador is also the right spot for religious syncretism in Brazil, which resulted from the merger of Catholicism and the African religion known as candomblé. There are many terreiros for candomblé rituals. You can arrange a visit to one of them in your hotel.

Convento de São Francisco
Address: Praça Padre Anchieta, Phone: 322.6430, Hours: 8am to 5:30pm; Sunday, 7am to 12pm
This may well be the highlight of baroque art in Salvador - don't miss it. Hundreds of pounds of gold were used to cover the altar of the church with sculptures of angels and celestial beings; it was built of jacaranda, a very hard and expensive tropical wood. The courtyard is covered with delightful Portuguese tiles. (1723-1782)

Catedral Basílica
Address: Terreiro de Jesus, Phone: 321.4573, Hours: 8am to 11:30am/2pm to 5:30pm (on Sunday, a baroque music concert is held inside the cathedral at 10:30am) Inside, you'll be able to see many different architectural styles. Many religious images and paintings cover the whole church. (1657-1672)

Ordem Terceira de São Francisco
Address: Rua Inácio Accioli, Phone: 321.6968, Hours: 8am to 12pm/1pm to 5pm It is the only church in Brazil built with a gray stone façade. It has a small museum of sacred art and a hall covered with Portuguese tiles. (1703)

Nossa Senhora de Conceição da Praia
Address: Largo da Conceição da Praia (Cidade Baixa), Phone: 242.0545, Hours: 6:30am to 11:30am/3pm to 5:30 pm; Sat to Mon, 6:30am to 11:30am
The building was pre-made in Portugal and shipped in pieces to Brazil. The picture in the roof creates an illusion. (1739-1773)

Mosteiro de São Bento
Address: Largo de São Bento, Phone: 322.4744, Hours: 9:30am to 11:30am/1pm to 4:30pm. Closed on Saturday and Sunday. (At 6pm every day a mass with Gregorian chant is celebrated).It has a museum of sacred art with a large collection of sculptures and gold jewelry. (1581)

Nosso Senhor do Bonfim
Address: Largo do Bonfim, Phone: 316.2196, Hours: 6:30am to 12pm/2pm to 6pm. Closed on Monday.It is considered one of the most famous churches in Salvador. Our Lord of Bonfim is the patron saint of Bahia, the reason for its high popularity. In the second week of January, a very popular and folkloric feast takes place: the cleansing of the steps of the church. It attracts many tourists and natives as well. (1745-1772)

Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos
Address: Largo do Pelourinho, Phone: 326.9701, Hours: 7:30am to 6pm; Sat/Sun 7:30am to 12pm, It was built by slaves and freed black men as a place of worship for them. (18th century)

Ordem Terceira do Carmo
Address: Largo do Carmo, Phone: 242 7954, Hours: 9am to 1pm/2pm to 6pm. Closed on Sunday.It features a neo-classical façade and contains sculptures of sacred art. (1636)

Nightlife and festivities

Salvador is a constant party. That is a common saying among Brazilians. In fact, for many people the ever-lasting celebrations of many different cultural aspects of the city demonstrate that the people of Salvador like to make a party of almost anything. Carnival obviously is the most famous popular festivity and it starts before the official dates in Brazil. It can be said that the whole summer is carnival in Salvador. Some religious festivities can also be transformed into a great party. The following is a list of popular parties in Salvador.

January 1st - Feast of the Our Lady of the Boa Viagem - Second week of January - The cleansing of the steps of the Church of Our Lord of Bonfim. This is a traditional party in Salvador attracting both natives and tourists from all over the world. It started when slave women decided to wash the stairway of the Our Lord of Bonfim church, the patron saint of Bahia, with perfumed waters. 

February 2nd - Feast of Yemanjá. Religion in Bahia has strong African influences. The African slaves brought to Brazil the practice of worshipping their deities. Yemanjá is the Goddess of the sea. On this day, people gather on the beaches in order to offer Yemanjá gifts, such as perfume, soap bars and white flowers.

February or March - Carnival. It is perhaps the most important party in Salvador. Music and dance groups gather a large crowd as they parade through the streets of the city. One of the most prestigious group is Olodum, which was the first to make the rhythms of Bahia known nationwide and abroad.  Differently from Rio, where the "samba schools"  parade is the biggest attraction, in Salvador the samba schools are replaced by the Trios Elétricos:  large vehicles with extremely powerful sound equipment, on top of which singers and performers play music. People follow them through the streets of the city. Tourists are advised to watch the parade from the balconies and terraces of the hotels; otherwise they can buy a costume (mortalha) and join one of the organized groups in the parade. Arrangements must be made in advance in both cases.

June - Feast of the Holy Ghost. It is the oldest feast and religious procession in the city.

Beaches

Porto da Barra - it is a bay with calm and crystal waters, excellent for bathing inside the city limits. Historically, it is the place where Tomé de Souza, the Portuguese explorer, landed to establish the city of Salvador.

Farol da Barra - Considered an excellent spot to see the sunset in Salvador and to hang around at night. There are many good restaurants and bars nearby. The sea is stronger with many waves, good for surfing. 

Ondina - It is the closest beach to the hotel area. It is good for all ages. It consists of a structure of pools carved on the rocks. Excellent place to eat good food.

Rio Vermelho - Facing the Santana Church, it is a traditional place to go to have a bath and then eat an acarajé in one of the many "Baiana" stands.

Pituba - Located in a very crowded neighborhood, during the weekends it receives many visitors. There are many bars and restaurants along the beach.

Jardim de Alá - Agitated waters and coconut trees are the two symbols of this beach which tourists and natives admire. 

Armação - Historically, this beach was the place where African slaves were smuggled in Salvador. There is a good infrastructure for restaurants. The Convention Center of Salvador is nearby.

Artistas/Boca do Rio - It is the home for artists, musicians, poets and intellectuals. Many bars along the coast help to contribute to its reputation as a bohemian place.

Corsário - This is the place for teenagers and young people in Salvador. Excellent for surfing, there are always (day and night) live concerts. The most important leisure and environmental preservation area of Salvador lies there: the Metropolitan Park of Pituaçu (Parque Metropolitano de Pituaçu).

Itapuã - Made famous by the lyrics of the song Tarde em Itapuã, composed by Vinicius de Moraes and Dorival Caymmi, this beach has calm waters. It is very good for bathing and water sports. As the song says, it is "good to spend the afternoon in Itapuã, under the sun that shines in Itapuã, listening to the sound of the sea in Itapuã, speaking of love in Itapuã".

Stella Maris - This is the place for environmentalists. Excellent place for sea sports, specially surfing and jet-skiing.

Flamengo - Most visited during weekends, it is full of coconut trees and strong waves, ideal for surfing.

Quick Escapes

Itaparica - The biggest island in the All Saints Bay. It is a 50-minute ride in a ferry boat from Salvador. It has many deserted beaches. Although some of them are in private condominiums, tourists are allowed to visit and enjoy them. There are many historical landmarks as the set of old houses in Itaparica, the São Lourenço Fort (1647) at the Forte Beach (Praia do Forte), the Our Lady of Piety Chapel, from 1622 (Capela de Nossa Senhora da Piedade), and the True Cross Church, from 1560 (Matriz de Vera Cruz). 

Santo Amaro da Purificação - It is a historical town, especially famous because it is the city of birth of two great Brazilian singers: Maria Bethania and Caetano Veloso. Some historical landmarks are worth visiting such as the Saint Anthony Convent (18th  century - Convento de Santo Antônio) and the Convent of the Humble (1793 - Convento dos Humildes). 

Cachoeira - It is another historical town full of churches dated from the colonial times. Recommended visits: the Church of the Third Order of Carmel (1695-1745, Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo); Our Lady of Rosary Church (1693-1754, Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Rosário) and Our Lady of Conception of the Hill (18th century, Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição do Monte).

Linha Verde - Starting in Arembepe, the Linha Verde ("Green Line") is a road that stretches for more than 62 miles (100 km). It passes by some of the most beautiful areas of the coast of Brazil. From fishing villages to eco-tourism resorts, the Linha Verde displays some of the most magnificent landscapes of the Brazilian territory. Each village has wonderful beaches and preserves the surrounding environment. Leaving Arembepe, you reach Praia do Forte, Porto do Sauípe (where a big resort was opened in 2000), Subaúna, Baixio, Barra do Itariri, Sitio, and finally Mangue Seco, the location for one of the most famous novels by Jorge Amado: "Tieta do Agreste".

Shopping

Craftwork is an essential part of Bahia's culture. You can find exotic musical instruments such as the berimbau, used especially in capoeira dancing/martial arts, antiques dated from the colonial times, such as copies of antique baroque saints, and many others. In Salvador, souvenirs can be found in places like Instituto Mauá, a place devoted to the confection and trade of craftworks, or Mercado Modelo, a market with several craftspeople. You will find berimbaus at Mestre Lua's office, a master in capoeira. Casa Moreira and Casa San Martin are places where you can find antiques. 

Instituto Mauá - Praça Azevedo Fernandes, 2 (Porto da Barra), phone - 264 5440; or Rua Gregório de Mattos, 27 (Pelourinho), phone - 321 5638

Mercado Modelo - Praça Cairu (Cidade Baixa)

Mestre Lua - Rua Frei Vicente, 19 (Pelourinho)

Casa Moreira - Ladeira da Praça, 1 (Centro), phone: 243 0822; or Rua Rui Barbosa, 51 (Centro), phone - 241 1260;

Casa San Martin - Rua Rui Barbosa,69 (Centro), phone - 321 9640.

Bahia is also a good place to buy cigars. The state is the largest producer of cigars with many old factories still making the products manually. A good place to buy a box of good Bahia's cigars is Tabacaria Rosa do Prado (Rua Inácio Aciolli, 5 - Pelourinho).

Besides craftsworks, Salvador has malls where you can find the most famous European or American brands, such as Shopping Iguatemi (Av. Tancredo Neves, Pituba).

Links

www.bahiatursa.ba.gov.br/
hometown.aol.com/pochetti7/Bahia-Brazil1.html
www.ddb.simplenet.com/bahia2.html
www.salvador450.com.br/

www.emtursa.com.br

 

Paraty - Ouro Preto - Salvador - Olinda

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